Switching Regulators: Mistake Fixing For Dummies

Some time ago, while designing the PCB for the Sony Vaio replacement motherboard, I went on a quest to find a perfect 5 V boost regulator. Requirements are simple – output 5 V at about 2A , with input ranging from 3 V to 5 V, and when the input is 5 V, go into “100% duty” (“pass-through”/”bypass”) mode where the output is directly powered from the input, saving me from any conversion inefficiencies for USB port power when a charger is connected. Plus, a single EN pin, no digital configuration, small footprint, no BGA, no unsolicited services or offers – what more could one ask for.

As usual, I go to an online shop, set the parameters: single channel, all topologies that say “boost” in the name, output range, sort by price, download datasheets one by one and see what kind of nice chips I can find. Eventually, I found the holy grail chip for me, the MIC2876, originally from Micrel, now made by Microchip.

MIC2876 is a 5 V regulator with the exact features I describe above – to a T! It also comes with cool features, like a PG “Power good” output, bidirectional load disconnect (voltage applied to output won’t leak into input), EMI reduction and efficiency modes, and it’s decently cheap. I put it on the Sony Vaio board among five other regulators, ordered the board, assembled it, powered it up, and applied a positive logic level onto the regulator’s EN pin.

Immediately, I saw the regulator producing 3 V output accompanied by loud buzzing noise – as opposed to producing 5 V output without any audible noise. Here’s how the regulator ended up failing, how exactly I screwed up the design, and how I’m creating a mod board to fix it – so that the boards I meticulously assembled, don’t go to waste.

Some Background… Noise

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Lithium-Ion Battery Hotswapping, Polarity, Holders

Everyone loves, and should respect, lithium-ion batteries. They pack a ton of power and can make our projects work better. I’ve gathered a number of tips and tricks about using them over the years, based on my own hacking and also lessons I’ve learned from others.

This installment includes a grab-bag of LiIon tricks that will help you supercharge your battery use, avoid some mistakes, and make your circuits even safer. Plus, I have a wonderful project that I just have to share.

Hot-swapping Cells

When your device runs out of juice, you might not always want to chain yourself to a wall charger. Wouldn’t it be cool if you could just hot-swap cells? Indeed it is, I’ve been doing it for years, it’s dead simple to support, but you can also do it wrong. Let me show you how to do it right!

Recently, a new handheld has hit the hacker markets – the Hackberry Pi. With a Blackberry keyboard and a colour screen, it’s a pretty standard entry into the trend of handheld Pi Zero-backed computers with Blackberry keyboards. It’s not open-source and the author does not plan to open-source its hardware, so I want to make it absolutely clear I don’t consider it hacker-friendly or worth promoting. It did publish schematics, though, and these helped me find a dangerous mistake that the first revision made when trying to implement LiIon battery hot-swap. Continue reading “Lithium-Ion Battery Hotswapping, Polarity, Holders”

Laser Cutters: Where’s The Point?

It is funny how when you first start doing something, you have so many misconceptions that you have to discard. When you look back on it, it always seems like you should have known better. That was the case when I first got a low-end laser cutter. When you want to cut or engrave something, it has to be in just the right spot. It is like hanging a picture. You can get really close, but if it is off just a little bit, people will notice.

The big commercial units I’ve been around all had cameras that were in a fixed position and were calibrated. So the software didn’t show you a representation of the bed. It showed you the bed. The real bed plus whatever was on it. Getting things lined up was simply a matter of dragging everything around until it looked right on the screen.

Today, some cheap laser cutters have cameras, and you can probably add one to those that don’t. But you still don’t need it. My Ourtur Laser Master 3 has nothing fancy, and while I didn’t always tackle it the best way, my current method works well enough. In addition, I recently got a chance to try an XTool S1. It isn’t that cheap, but it doesn’t have a camera. Interestingly, though, there are two different ways of laying things out that also work. However, you can still do it the old-fashioned way, too. Continue reading “Laser Cutters: Where’s The Point?”

I2C For Hackers: The Basics

You only really need two data wires to transfer a ton of data. Standards like UART, USB2, I2C, SPI, PS/2, CAN, RS232, SWD (an interface to program MCUs), RS485, DMX, and many others, all are a testament to that. In particular, I2C is such a powerful standard, it’s nigh omnipresent – if you were to somehow develop an allergy to I2C, you would die.

Chances are, whatever device you’re using right now, there’s multiple I2C buses actively involved in you reading this article. Your phone’s touchscreen is likely to use I2C, so is your laptop touchpad, most display standards use I2C, and power management chips are connected over I2C more often than not, so you’re covered even if you’re reading this on a Raspberry Pi! Basically everything “smart” has an I2C port, and if it doesn’t, you can likely imitate it with just two GPIOs.

If you’re building a cool board with a MCU, you should likely plan for having an I2C interface exposed. With it, you can add an LCD screen with a respectable resolution or a LED matrix, or a GPS module, a full-sized keyboard or a touchpad, a gesture sensor, or a 9 degree of freedom IMU – Inertial Measurement Unit, like a accelerometer+compass+gyroscope combination. A small I2C chip can help you get more GPIOs for your MCU or CPU, or a multi-channel motor driver, or a thermal camera, or a heap of flash memory; if you’re adding some sort of cool chip onto your board, it likely has an I2C interface to let you fine-tune its fancy bits.

As usual, you might have heard of I2C, and we sure keep talking about it on Hackaday! There’s a good few long-form articles about it too, both general summaries and cool tech highlights; this article is here to fill into some gaps and make implicit knowledge explicit, making sure you’re not missing out on everything that I2C offers and requires you to know!

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Secrets Of The Old Digital Design Titans

Designing combinatorial digital circuits seems like it should be easy. After all, you can do everything you want with just AND, OR, and NOT gates. Bonus points if you have an XOR gate, but you can build everything you need for combinatorial logic with just those three components. If all you want to do is design something to turn on the light when the ignition is on AND door 1 is open OR door 2 is open, you won’t have any problems. However, for more complex scenarios, how we do things has changed several times.

In the old days, you’d just design the tubes or transistor circuits you needed to develop your logic. If you were wiring up everything by hand anyway, you might as well. But then came modules like printed circuit boards. There was a certain economy to having cards that had, say, two NOR gates on a card. Then, you needed to convert all your logic to use NOR gates (or NAND gates, if that’s what you had).

Small-scale ICs changed that. It was easy to put a mix of gates on a card, although there was still some slight advantage to having cards full of the same kind of gate. Then came logic devices, which would eventually become FPGAs. They tend to have many of one kind of “cell” with plenty of logic gates on board, but not necessarily the ones you need. However, by that time, you could just tell a computer program what you wanted, and it would do the heavy lifting. That was a luxury early designers didn’t have. Continue reading “Secrets Of The Old Digital Design Titans”

Embedded Python: MicroPython Is Amazing

In case you haven’t heard, about a month ago MicroPython has celebrated its 11th birthday. I was lucky that I was able to start hacking with it soon after pyboards have shipped – the first tech talk I remember giving was about MicroPython, and that talk was how I got into the hackerspace I subsequently spent years in. Since then, MicroPython been a staple in my projects, workshops, and hacking forays.

If you’re friends with Python or you’re willing to learn, you might just enjoy it a lot too. What’s more, MicroPython is an invaluable addition to a hacker’s toolkit, and I’d like to show you why. Continue reading “Embedded Python: MicroPython Is Amazing”

PCB Design Review: HAB Tracker With ATMega328P

Welcome to the Design Review Central! [VE3SVF] sends us their board, and it’s a HAB (High Altitude Balloon) tracker board. It’s got the venerable ATMega28P on it, a LoRa modem and a GPS module, and it can be powered from a LiIon battery. Stick this board with its battery onto a high-altitude balloon, have it wake up and transmit your coordinates every once in a while, and eventually you’ll find it in a field – if you’re lucky. Oherwise, it will get stuck hanging on a tree branch, and you will have to use a quadcopter to try and get it down, and then, in all likelihood, a second quadcopter so that you can free the first one. Or go get a long ladder.

The ATMega328P is tried and true, and while it’s been rising in price, it’s still available – with even an updated version that sports a few more peripherals; most importantly, you’re sure to find a 328P in your drawer, if not multiple. Apart from that, the board uses two modules from a Chinese manufacturer, G-Nice, for both GPS and Lora. Both of these modules are cheap, making this tracker all that more accessible; I could easily see this project being sold as a “build your own beacon” kit!

Let’s make it maybe a little nicer, maybe a little cheaper, and maybe decrease the power consumption a tad along the way. We’ll use some of the old tricks, a few new ones, and talk about project-specific aspects that might be easy to miss.

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