Sometimes, hardware projects get cancelled before they have a chance to make an impact, often due to politics or poor economic judgment. The Tsushin Booster for the PC Engine is one such project, possibly the victim of vicious commercial games between the leading Japanese console manufacturers at the tail end of the 1980s. It seems like a rather unlikely product: a modem attachment for a games console with an added 32 KB of battery-backed SRAM. In addition to the bolt-on unit, a dedicated software suite was provided on an EPROM-based removable cartridge, complete with a BASIC interpreter and a collection of graphical editor tools for game creation.

Internally, the Tsushin booster holds no surprises, with the expected POTS interfacing components tied to an OKI M6826L modem chip, the SRAM device, and what looks like a custom ASIC for the bus interfacing.

It was, however, very slow, topping out at only 1200 Baud, which, even for the period, coupled with pay-by-minute telephone charges, would be a hard sell. The provided software was clearly intended to inspire would-be games programmers, with a complete-looking BASIC dialect, a comms program, a basic sprite editor with support for animation and even a map editor. We think inputting BASIC code via a gamepad would get old fast, but it would work a little better for graphical editing.

PC Engine hacks are thin pickings around these parts, but to understand a little more about the ‘console wars’ of the early 1990s, look no further than this in-depth architectural study. If you’d like to get into the modem scene but lack original hardware, your needs could be satisfied with openmodem. Of course, once you’ve got the hardware sorted, you need some to connect to. How about creating your very own dial-up ISP?

[David Shadoff] has a clear soft spot for the NEC console systems and has been collecting many tools and data about them. When developing with these old systems, having a way to upload code quickly is a real bonus, hence the creation of the PC-FX Dev Cart. Based on the Raspberry Pi RP2040, the custom cartridge PCB has everything needed to run software uploadable via a USB-C connection.

While the PC-FX is a CDROM-based system, it does sport a so-called FX-BMP or backup memory port cartridge slot, which games can use to save state and perform other special functions. Under certain circumstances, the PC-FX can be instructed to boot from this memory space, and this cartridge project is intended to enable this. Having a quick way to upload and execute code is very useful when exploring how these old systems work, developing new applications, or improving the accuracy of system emulators. The original FX-BMP cartridge has little more inside than a supercapacitor-backed SRAM and a custom interfacing IC, and of course, it would be quite a hassle to use this to develop custom code.

The RP2040 isn’t really being too tasked in this application, with one core dedicated to emulating a 128K x 8 SRAM, handling the PC-FX bus interface, and the other doing duty on the USB side. At the top of the PCB are a pair of 74LVC16T245 16-bit level shifter ICs, which need to be translated from the 5 Volt console voltage domain into the 3.3 Volts at which the microcontroller operates. Power for the board is taken from the USB, not the console, enabling code to be uploaded before powering up the target. This way, the power budget of the console isn’t compromised, and the cartridge can be initialized before powering up and booting.

[David] Needed to overclock the RP2040 to 240 MHz, way beyond the specification limit of 133 MHz, because despite the PIO block being fast enough to emulate the required interface timing, the latency passing data between the PIO and the CPU core was too large, hence the need for GPIO-based solution. The project was created in KiCAD; the design files can be found here, and only one mistake has been found so far!

[David] is also heavily involved with documenting and collecting all the PC-FX resources available in the wild. These can be found in this GitHub repo. It doesn’t look like we’ve covered the PC-FX before, but we have seen a few hacks about its older sibling, the PC Engine and the closely related TurboGrafx-16. Here’s a simple PC engine-to-TurboGrafx converter board for starters. If you lack the genuine hardware, do not despair; here is an FPGA-based emulator.

A decade ago, [Jouke Waleson] bought a Dutch ‘model 1950’ PTT (The Dutch Postal Service) rotary-dial telephone of presumably 1950s vintage manufactured by a company called Standard Electric, and decided it would be neat to hack it to function as a Bluetooth hands-free device. Looking at the reverse, however, it is stamped “10.65” on the bottom, so maybe it was made as recently as 1965, but whatever, it’s still pretty old-tech now.

The plan was to utilise ESP32 hardware with the Espressif HFP stack to do all the Bluetooth heavy lifting. [Jouke] did find out the hard way that this is not a commonly-trodden path in hackerland, and working examples and documentation were sparse, but the fine folks from Espressif were on hand via GitHub to give him the help he needed. After ripping into the unit, it was surprisingly stuffed inside there. Obviously, all the switching, even the indication, was purely electromechanical, which should be no surprise. [Jouke] identified all the necessary major components, adding wires and interfacing components as required, but was a bit stumped at the function of one funky-looking component that we reckon must be a multi-tap audio transformer, oddly finished in baby pink! After renovating some interesting cross-shaped mechanical indicators and wiring up some driving transistors, it was time to get on to the audio interface.

Initially, [Joike] planned to use an INMP441 I²S digital microphone module, but this was incompatible with the standard ESP32 HFP client (used for Bluetooth hands-free support), so [Jouke] pivoted and used a WM8782-based ADC board for audio input. This also allowed the existing microphone to be used simply by biasing

it to 5 Volts and hooking it straight up to the ADC board via a coupling capacitor. This was a happy outcome, as the modern digital microphone would have sounded very different to the original equipment! On the speaker side, a PCM5102 I²S audio DAC module was pressed into service. The ringer/buzzer needed seven volts, so adding a boost converter board was also necessary. It’s a minor annoyance for powering a single device, but this is a one-off hack, so it’s no big deal. Finally, the backplate was modified to add a USB-C module and a power switch so it could be power-cycled, giving access to the ESP32 boot loader and enabling firmware updates without opening the case.

The outfit’s brains are courtesy of a LilyGo T-Koala board, a basic breakout board based around the older ESP32-WROVER module. This was necessary as the newer ESP32 chips drop Bluetooth classic support and, with it, support for handling the Bluetooth hands-free protocol. We were particularly ticked by the project tagline, “Bakelite to the future”, and that lifting the phone when not answering an incoming call connects you to Google Assistant or Siri! Nice work! For a look over the source code for the project, check out the GitHub page.

This is not the first modernisation of a classic telephone, and we hope it won’t be the last. Here’s an older GSM-based hack. If all this talk of rotary phones and tethered handsets confuses you, here’s our guide to this older telephone system. Telephones weren’t the only old-school home appliances constructed from Bakelite—far from it. It was also used to make many radios.

We see a fair few glitcher projects, especially the simpler voltage glitchers. Still, quite often due to their relative simplicity, they’re little more than a microcontroller board and a few components hanging off some wires. PicoGlitcher by Hackaday.IO user [Matthias Kesenheimer] is a simple voltage glitcher which aims to make the hardware setup a little more robust without getting caught up in the complexities of other techniques. Based on the Raspberry Pico (obviously!), the board has sufficient niceties to simplify glitching attacks in various situations, providing controllable host power if required.

A pair of 74LVC8T245 (according to the provided BoM) level shifters allow connecting to targets at voltages from 1.8 V to 5 V if powered by PicoGlitcher or anything in spec for the ‘245 if target power is being used. In addition to the expected RESET and TRIGGER signals, spare GPIOs are brought out to a header for whatever purpose is needed to control a particular attack. If a programmed reset doesn’t get the job done, the target power is provided via a TPS2041 load switch to enable cold starts. The final part of the interface is an analog input provided by an SMA connector.

The glitching signal is also brought out to an SMA connector via a pair of transistors; an IRLML2502 NMOS performs ‘low power’ glitching by momentarily connecting the glitch output to ground. This ‘crowbarring’ causes a rapid dip in supply voltage and upsets the target, hopefully in a helpful way. An IRF7807 ‘NMOS device provides a higher power option, which can handle pulse loads of up to 66A. Which transistor you select in the Findus glitching toolchain depends on the type of load connected, particularly the amount of decoupling capacitance that needs to be discharged. For boards with heavier decoupling, use the beefy IRF7807 and accept the glitch won’t be as sharp as you’d like. For other hardware, the faster, smaller device is sufficient.

The software to drive PicoGlitcher and the hardware design files for KiCAD are provided on the project GitHub page. There also appears to be an Eagle project in there. You can’t have too much hardware documentation! For the software, check out the documentation for a quick overview of how it all works and some nice examples against some targets known to be susceptible to this type of attack.

For a cheap way to glitch an STM8, you can just use a pile of wires. But for something a bit more complicated, such as a Starlink user terminal, you need something a bit more robust. Finally, voltage glitching doesn’t always work, so the next tool you can reach for is a picoEMP.

Unless you spend all your time lounging on the sofa, you probably own at least one pair of shoes. But have you ever thought to make your own to improve some aspect of your life? YouTube channel Answer in Progress set out to do precisely that, but it didn’t quite work out.

When you (well, other people) get into running, it’s tempting to believe a lot of the shoe company hype and just drop hundreds of dollars on the latest ‘super shoe’ and hope that will help you break your target time. But do you actually need to buy into all this, or can you make something yourself? The project aimed to get the 5k time down significantly, at any cost, but primarily by cheating with technology. The team set out to look at the design process, given that there is indeed a fair amount of science to shoe design. Firstly, after a quick run, the main issues with some existing shoes were identified, specifically that there are a lot of pain points; feet hurt from all the impacts, and knees take a real pounding, too. That meant they needed to increase the sole cushioning. They felt that too much energy was wasted with the shoes not promoting forward motion as much as possible; feet tended to bounce upwards so that a rocker sole shape would help. Finally, laces and other upper sole features cause distraction and some comfort issues, so those can be deleted.

The plan was to make a ‘sock’ shoe style, with an upper in one piece and stretchy enough to slip on without laces. The process started by wrapping the foot in cling film and then a few layers of duct tape to fix the shape. This was split down the top to extract the foot, open out the pattern, and transfer it to some nylon fabric. The outer profile was transferred and cut out with simple hand tools in a fashion that would allow the shape to be reconstructed as it was glued to a sole. It sounds simple, but it’s pretty fiddly work.

The latest running shoes use specialised rubber materials for the midsole. The solid foam wedge between the outer rubber and the inner sole cushions the foot. Those materials are only a few per cent ‘better’ than much more accessible foams that can be 3D printed. After sculpting a sole shape by hand using Blender, a friend 3D printed it. After that, the upper part was glued and ready for a test run. Which didn’t last long. It turned out that the lack of a stable heel counter (the bit around the back) that helps lock the heel in place meant the foot was too loose in the shoe, causing potential issues such as an ankle roll. That would be not good.  A follow-up session with a sports-focused chiropodist demonstrated that all this was rather pointless before the fundamental issues of strength and fitness were addressed. So, whilst it was fun to see an attempt to beat the big boys at their own game, it sure isn’t easy to pull it off, especially if you can’t get off the sofa.

The invention of flexible 3D printing filaments spurred the development of a wide range of 3D-printed footwear, like these low-poly beauties. While we’re 3D printing shoes, we also need some lace locks. Finally, with winter approaching for us Northerners, perhaps it’s time to run off a pair of 3D-printed strap-on cleats.

Thanks to [fluffy] for the tip!

Whilst microwave plasmas are nothing new around here, we were curious to see what happens at 20x the power, and since YouTuber [Styropyro] had put out a new video, we couldn’t resist seeing where this was going. Clearly, as your bog standard microwave oven can only handle at most one kilowatt; the ‘oven’ needed a bit of an upgrade.

Getting hold of bigger magnetrons is tricky, but as luck — or perhaps fate — would have it, a 16 kW, water-cooled beast became available on eBay thanks to a tip from a Discord user. It was odd but perhaps not surprising that this Hitatch H0915 magnetron was being sold as a ‘heat exchanger.’

[Styropyro] doesn’t go into much detail on how to supply the anode with its specified 16 kW at 9.5 kVDC, but the usual sketchy (well down-right terrifying) transformers in the background indicate that he had just what was needed kicking around the ‘shop. Obviously, since this is a [Styropyro] video, these sorts of practical things have been discussed before, so there is no need to waste precious time and get right on to blowing stuff up!

Some classic microwave tricks are shown, like boiling water in five seconds, cooking pickles (they really do scream at 20 kW) and the grape-induced plasma-in-a-jar. It was quite clear that at this power level, containing that angry-looking plasma was quite a challenge. If it was permitted to leak out for only a few seconds, it destroyed the mica waveguide cover and risked coupling into the magnetron and frying it. Many experiments followed, a lot of which seemed to involve the production of toxic brown-colored nitrogen dioxide fumes. It was definitely good to see him wearing a respirator for this reason alone!

The main star of the demonstration was the plasma-induced emissions of various metal elements, with the rare indigo and violet colors making an appearance once the right blend of materials was introduced into the glassware. Talking of glassware, we reckon he got through a whole kitchen’s worth. We lost count of the number of exploded beakers and smashed plates. Anyway, plasma science is fun science, but obviously, please don’t try any of this at home!

For those who didn’t take an ‘electron devices’ course at college, here’s a quick guide to how magnetrons work. Plasma physics is weird; here’s how the plasma grape experiment works. Finally, this old hack is a truly terrible idea. Really don’t do this.

BIQU has released a new line of low-temperature build plates that look to be the next step in 3D printing’s iteration—or so YouTuber Printing Perspective thinks after reviewing one. The Cryogrip Pro is designed for the Bambu X1, P1, and A1 series of printers but could easily be adapted for other magnetic-bed machines.

The idea of the new material is to reduce the need for high bed temperatures, keeping enclosure temperatures low. As some enclosed printer owners may know, trying to print PLA and even PETG with the door closed can be troublesome due to how slowly these materials cool. Too high an ambient temperature can wreak havoc with this cooling process, even leading to nozzle-clogging.

The new build plate purports to enable low, even ambient bed temperatures, still with maximum adhesion. Two versions are available, with the ‘frostbite’ version intended for only PLA and PETG but having the best adhesion properties.  A more general-purpose version, the ‘glacier’ sacrifices a little bed adhesion but gains the ability to handle a much wider range of materials.

An initial test with a decent-sized print showed that the bed adhesion was excellent, but after removing the print, it still looked warped. The theory was that it was due to how consistently the magnetic build plate was attached to the printer bed plate, which was now the limiting factor. Switching to a different printer seemed to ‘fix’ that issue, but that was really only needed to continue the build plate review.

They demonstrated a common issue with high-grip build plates: what happens when you try to remove the print. Obviously, magnetic build plates are designed to be removed and flexed to pop off the print, and this one is no different. The extreme adhesion, even at ambient temperature, does mean it’s even more essential to flex that plate, and thin prints will be troublesome. We guess that if these plates allow the door to be kept closed, then there are quite a few advantages, namely lower operating noise and improved filtration to keep those nasty nanoparticles in check. And low bed temperatures mean lower energy consumption, which is got to be a good thing. Don’t underestimate how much power that beefy bed heater needs!

Ever wondered what mini QR-code-like tags are on the high-end build plates? We’ve got the answer. And now that you’ve got a pile of different build plates, how do you store them and keep them clean? With this neat gadget!